Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Letter from Shanghai!

My beautiful and gorgeous high school BBF Robert Oliver, author of best-selling cookbook Me'a Kai, is currently in China, on a mission from the Kiwi Government to spread Brand New Zealand to the world.  Got a letter from him that I'm posting in here and the best part is ... he'll never know because my blog is banned and blocked in China.  Bahahhaahahah!


Shanghai is amazing. It’s like NYC blended with Bangkok, multiplied by 5,000 with a massive dose of science fiction, served freezing cold, steaming hot, fashionably gorgeous or squalidly fetid, usually both.

I was walking in Xintiandi yesterday ... the Apple Store, Gucci, Cartier ... huge spectacular storefronts, gorgeous Shanghainese women dressed to bits ... HUGE money ... wide avenues with perfect pavements, manicured trees filled with tiny pin lights ... then I turned a corner and was in an alleyway with 1,000s of people wok-cooking on the street, public tv sets, cats and dogs running about (or for their lives), yelling, laughing, the teeming rabble, 1,000 micro-businesses per square inch - all tailors, watch repairmen, moon cake vendors, chickens in cages. It was a bit like India in that everything is vivid and intense, wildly contrasting and all crammed in together. 



I have not found the pollution to be nearly as bad as I expected.

Today I went to Expo. Was feeling very lonely and a bit overwhelmed. Everything is so difficult. I don’t speak Mandarin and the Chinese way is tough so doing everything or anything is a huge challenge. I had to buy band aids today and I couldn't believe anything could be so hard.  Oh Lord, the simplest things are incredibly challenging!! I get lost a lot, needless to say. The place keep reminding me that it’s a city of 23 million people!!!! HHHUUGGEE!!!

... so anyway, back to the story. I went to Expo feeling very lost, lonely and overwhelmed ... when I saw the Pacific Island Pavilion! Dropped in and there they were! Everyone! The guys from the Tahiti booth came running up to me, I knew everyone from the Fijian booth and all the fabulous drag queens running the Samoan booth, and from the Tongan booth came whispering "There’s the author of Me’a Kai"  I could hear them!! And my old friend Bernadette from Fiji turned out to be running the whole Pacific Pavillion. She took my hand and said “Isa, Ropate, so happy to see you. Just you remember, when you're in Shanghai, your Pacific family is just across the river” It was awesome.



And at 2pm the Solomon Islanders came on to dance, and all the other Pacific folks came out and joined in and sung. It was sssooo beautiful. So wonderful to see our lovely Pacific Island people here in all this madness, so far from home yet so intact, so whole, so warm, so real.

Xoxoxxo

Robert Oliver   Author


Me'a Kai.jpg
Photos: Shiri Ram
 
http://www.randomhouse.co.nz/Book_Display_46.aspx?CategoryId=17933&ProductId=472811

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Random Photo!

Our heatwave continues and this room is a sweatbox so I'll do another random photo today, chosen with my eyes shut.  Again, I hope it isn't something interesting so I don't have to tell you about it.


Ah, the Christmas decorations at Kowloon Tong shopping centre from ... mmmm, three years ago? Gosh, HK does fabulous Christmas decor.  I frequently wonder what they do with everything afterwards because so much of it I'd just love to own.

I really should do a post on HK's Christmas doodads, shouldn't I, so you too can be very impressed.  Only not today.

Monday, September 27, 2010

What Kills Us This Week!

Mainland China this week left me speechless with rage.  In fact, I'm so far beyond fury I will just tell you what's happening and leave you to provide the fury and expletives yourself.

You know Macau, right?  The gorgeous island-city the Portuguese set up in the Pearl River Delta over 500 years ago?

 Macau as seen from the water.
Only it didn't have casinos back then!

As it was over 200 years ago!

And you must be aware also that UNESCO has given the heart of Macau, the exquisite Portuguese-built Centro-area, World Heritage Status because it is an absolutely irreplaceable gem of a place:

Block after block of this and better!

Well, the Mainland, who promised at the 1999 Handover to allow Macau "a high degree of autonomy", turns out to now be secretly implementing a little parcel of "infrastructure improvements" to the World Heritage section that includes:

1) building a refuse centre right next door to the oldest Christian church on Chinese soil ...

St Anthony's Cathedral
built by Portuguese soldiers
in about 1530!

... replacing that fountain you can see at the front of the picture.  And if you can't see it clearly, here it is:


Giving up this for a rubbish dump?  Outrage enough for you?  Well, it has barely begun.

2) The World Heritage Park, Cameo's Garden ...

 My only photo of the place!

... well, since "it's not being used for anything else" it will now be turned into a car park.  And this for a garden that was donated to the people by the British East India Company, in what was clearly a little piece of colonial-one-up-manship!

3)  the lighthouse ...


... which has, for over 500 years, hung the weather warning system ...



... and thus needs to be seen from every point in the city, will now have a new large building placed in front of it!

And so on!  A total slap in the face of this SAR, yes?  A total slap to UNESCO?  A total slap to every non-gambling tourist who wants to visit? 

This new infrastructure was all supposed to be kept secret and done in secret - in fact it only came out after they began to jack-hammer up the front of the church - and the Chinese Mainland developers are now LIVID that Macau newspapers, exercising their constitutional right to free press, found the plans and released them to the public.

Outrage?  Look, if you are any place else in the world, can you let other people know? China HAS to be stopped.  Can you do something to help?

 THREATDOWN
 Chinese promises!
And need I have to say this?


THIS MUST NOT BE ALLOWED TO HAPPEN!

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Another Random Photo!

Today, it's too hot to think and I really don't want to be in this room, so, for today, let's just do another random photo, chosen with my eyes shut, and I'll only tell you about it if it's interesting ... and hope that it isn't:




I have no idea what just happened.  Tried to upload one and I've got three.  Obviously, i-photo has done some upgrade I don't know about.  Honestly, I do wish Keith would leave my computer alone.

These photos actually are ones I couldn't find for a previous post, about Mrs To and her "Stop Dissing Our Mother, The Sea" campaign, where she used to take her sam pan around HK Harbour and scoop up the rubbish.  Now, after nearly 17 years of working alone, HK caught up with her vision and now give her lots of young men to help out.

Let me see if I can find the post:  Mrs To.

"Paul is Dead"

OK, I'll tell you my "Paul is Dead" story!  It isn't much of a story but I'll tell it anyway.

On that fateful day mentioned in the previous post, I eventually arrived, with my soul damned for all eternity, at the news-agency to buy the envelopes I needed, but outside on the footpath was a handwritten sign saying "Paul is Dead"  I stopped, wondering "Paul who?" when a kindly old man, just passing by, must have read either my mind or my face, and said, in the kindest voice, "It's Paul McCartney, love!"

"WHAT???"

"Paul McCartney was killed in a car accident."

It was so horrible, so soul-destroying, I was instantly blinded by howling tears and began to run, frantically trying to get away from the pain. At first, I had no conscious idea of where I was going, but then realised I was up the hill and half-way back to school, but coming at it from a different angle.

The back fence of the school grounds was just beyond a small suburban farm-ette.  I decided it was all too important to go back down the hill to the road and get in the ordinary way and that I had to tell the others immediately, and so took a shortcut through the property.

And barely had I passed through the gate ... when I'm attacked by flying geese. They came racing from everywhere and went for me, savagely honking, pecking at me, ripping off flesh, tearing clothes and fluttering up to go for the face. It was just so WRONG!  Here I am, devastated by the death of Paul McCartney and these stupid geese don't realise what pain I'm already in.

So, for the third time that day, I'm frantically running to escape something.  Anyway, battered, bloody and bruised, I made the back fence and scrambled over, finally realising why Ancient Romans kept those stupid birds as watch-dogs.

And secretly very, very pleased I'm getting to "Bleed for Paul!"

The other boarders were doing homework-prep when I burst in on them:  "Paul is dead!"  "Paul who?" "Paul McCartney!"  "Nooooooo!" and the entire room was instantly wailing and weeping and gnashing teeth, breast-beating, howling.  Oh, the pain!  The pain!

We had to know what happened so slunk out to find Sister Rosalie, the only sane and reasonable nun in the bunch, to tell her the news and to ask if she'd let us watch the off-limits only-on-Sunday-afternoons TV.  She too, lovely lady that she was, was devastated and together we all slunk into the TV room.

It was all over media on every channel, all those screaming, crying, devastated girls with fabbo haircuts. And in the few hours since the first press release, nine had already suicided.  Everyone wanted to "Bleed for Paul". But then came the ABC news and the lead story: "Paul McCartney issued a press statement this afternoon that he is NOT dead."  But he didn't show his face.

Yeah, right! Like we believed that!  "They're just saying that to stop all the suicides" we wisely told each other and continued with the weeping and wailing. 

It took weeks for Paul McCartney to show his face. Do you remember?  Unbelievably irresponsible. It wasn't until the premier of "Yellow Submarine", and that was ... what, five weeks after?  And we all studied those photographs with intense interest and, very definitely, that face was different.  The proportions of the face were all wrong, and that chin was so much longer. "It's a ring-in" we wisely told each other, determined not to be fooled by the money-men in the pop industry.

And so we believed the conspiracy theories and, for months, tried to work out who the ring-in was.  Everyone else was saying it was the winner of a recent Paul McCartney look-alike contest, but I had my own theory.

It was that awful song "Lily the Pink" that got me.

 

OK, I thought it was that guy on the left, made over with drastic plastic surgery, during those five or six weeks we had no Paul McCartney sightings whatsoever.

But really listen to that awful song!  The chords, the syntax, the way the song is structured, that ridiculous imagery, the way it's put together, but mostly that horrid fake "teenager" cynicism about adults. Isn't it just like every song Paul McCartney ever wrote ... that wasn't brutally written over by John Lennon and turned into something half-way decent.

I mean look at this song:



Or this one:



You can't tell me you can't see and hear the similarities!  Really stupid "high school" musical numbers written by a silly and pretentious kid raised on Vaudeville and bad English stand-up comedy! 

So for years that was my theory:  Paul McCartney was no longer Paul McCartney and was in fact the guy from Scaffold, and that's why every song he came up with after he "died" was SO BAD.

These days?  I think Paul McCartney, who claimed he was traveling the US with his then-girlfriend Jane Asher - and note how she dropped him in this time-frame, therein PROVING this Paul was a ring-in -  was having a chin implant at the time, and that's why he didn't show his face.  And that's also why his face looked out of proportion when he did finally show it!

Why I think this?  I recently re-saw The Magical Mystery Tour, made before and after the whole "Paul is dead" drama, and Paul has a decidedly weak chin and then he doesn't and then he does and then he doesn't.  I think what happened was that he saw the rushes of the film, didn't like his appearance and so went to the US to have it fixed ... which could also explain John Lennon's line in "I am the Walrus", written about Paul and written specifically for The Magic Mystery Tour album, which goes "You've been a naughty boy, you let your face grow long!".

And if you look at those much later photos where he grows that beard, around the time of the Guru Maharaji/ India saga, if you look into the beard you'll see ... a sticking plaster.  I think that's when he finally realised his new chin didn't suit him and he had it taken out.

And the reason for the similarities between "Lily the Pink" and every song Paul McCartney ever wrote that wasn't reworked by John? I would put good money on it being a reject from the Lennon and McCartney songbook, rightfully thrown out by John for the unsave-able crap that it was  and thus sold in the open market.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Where Do You Go To, My Lovely!

Found this on youtube. Once upon a time, I thought it the most beautiful song ever written.  However, hearing it again after all these years, it brought back the strange memory of the first time I heard it.




I was maybe 9 or 10 years old and at boarding school in Australia, at the nastiest place imaginable.  I won't tell you the name but if Dickens ever wrote a novel about a convent school in the mountains, it would be this place.

It wasn't just that the nuns were all insane, but that they were all so DIFFERENTLY insane.  Honestly, apart from Sister Rosalie - a local girl with a genuine vocation and elderly parents just down the way that she couldn't leave - you could do a study of an entire range of mental illnesses just from this bunch.  I could tell you dozens of savagely horrible stories about that horrendous year stuck in Looney-World, until mum and dad finally believed what we were telling them - and it was all so off-the-wall it was indeed hard to believe - and got us out of there!, but I won't.

But I have, I must let you know, told "Broken Rites", the Australian organisation investigating abuses in various religious organisations, about a lot of went on that year, because, seriously, it was that bad. And, hey, what was really cute about doing that report was discovering 19 other people had previously given them reports about that school and a number of those people were old friends I'd lost contact with over the years.

But I will tell you about this one memory:

There I was, in town, racing frantically past the pub trying not to be hit by the flying sperm ...

... OK, you obviously need a bit of backstory here:  Mother Madelaine!  Head of the school and convent, she was this tall, lean, elegant, patrician-looking woman (think Maggie Smith) and presented  as wonderful, charming and learned and you really liked her until you discovered ... she had this thing about SPERM!  It was everywhere, you see.  Sperm was everywhere. It crawled out of walls and dripped from tables and you had to constantly wash your hands to escape from it because it was omnipresent and out to get you  and she never let men stand within six feet of her because that's how far it leapt and if you ever had to sit next to a man, you had to sit on TWO Sydney phone books and carry three on your lap because that was the only way to stop their disgusting sperm from creeping inside you.

And pubs!  Mother Madelaine particularly hated pubs! Pubs were full of sperm flying wildly around, like scud missiles searching for a target.  And so, if you ever went into town, when it came to passing the pub ... run, girl, RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!

So there I was that day, alone and walking into town to buy stationery, when I came to the pub.  Terrifying!  So naturally I began racing frantically past the building trying not to be hit by flying sperm ...

... but coming from that pub was the most amazing song I had ever heard.  "Where do you go to, my lovely, when you're alone in your bed." It stopped me in my tracks and, sperm be damned, hellfire and eternal damnation be damned, I wanted to hear it.

So I stopped and listened and - apart from "What does that mean?  "You slip your nipples in brandy and never get your lips wet?"  Can you actually drink through your nipples?" - it blew me away; probably the most elegant and sophisticated song I had ever heard; opening a door into a world of unimagined delights.  I instantly decided that was the future I wanted, studying at the Sorbonne and owning racehorses and stealing art from Picasso and drinking through my nipples.

But it never happened, did it!  That future I wanted for myself, chosen that day while being bombarded by flying sperm outside that old red brick pub in a small Australian town!  Still, the future I did have turned out to be most pleasant indeed.

There is more to this story.  Much, much more.  "Paul is dead" and getting attacked by a flock of geese! Lots of random things that all add up to a very memorable day. However, I'm only telling you about this song and the very first time I heard it.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Reuben!

How exciting is this:  An article on our nephew, Reuben!  Totally a gorgeous guy!:


Reuben Rowntree's picture


About Reuben

Interested in sound at an early age, Reuben began his journey into audio engineering by cutting and splicing cassette tapes together. This later turned into recording with multiple tape decks until the purchase of a four-track recorder got him started in real multi-track recording. Reuben has consistently been interested in music, and as such at the age of 11 he took up the drums. As the need to play with other musicians grew he moved to the bass, and then eventually he resided on the guitar.

Reuben completed a diploma in audio engineering in 2001 and since then has been involved with many productions of various kinds. Working for The Inside Track post production facility Reuben edited sound effects, atmosphere, dialogue and performed foley for many films. Some of his credits include the Academy Award nominated Whale Rider, The Vector File, This is Not a Love Story, Cupid's Prey and others including many short films. Most recently Reuben finished work engineering music for the film Rain of the Children (2008) which won the New Zealand Film Award in the category of "Achievement in Original Music in Film".

Reuben is a specialist in the area of computer based music production using tools such as Pro Tools, Logic Pro, Reason, Cubase/Nuendo and many other Digital Audio Workstations to produce music in a wide range of styles. He is currently a course coordinator and lecturer at SAE Auckland and actively records and mixes music when possible.

Musical Interests:
Good music in any genre. Metal, Dub/Reggae, Blues, Hip Hop.

Personal Interests:
Music, Film, Kitesurfing.

Defeating Forni!

Talking about Forni, our former rental agent in Brisbane, the other day got me thinking about those days and laughing hard, but then, over dinner the other night, I asked Hubby if he remembered her ... and it was instantly all anger and rage: "You all found her funny!" he snapped. "I didn't.  Never! I thought she was the worst piece of low-life scum ever to come into my life and that's really saying something because I've known a LOT of low-life scum."

Yeah, he has the right to still be angry.  30 years later, we are still being dunned to pay the phone bill for all those calls to Iceland made on our phone after we moved out!  Thousands of dollars worth of calls!  Serious thousands and so, yes, she continues to be an annoyance long after we finally defeated her so ... I guess that means she did win after all!

Actually, that phone bill is one of the many occasions that makes me so thrilled I'm Irish.  The removal van was outside, all packed, and we'd already handed Forni back the keys, and I was making one final sweep through the empty house to see if we'd forgotten anything, when I suddenly got "bansheed".

This happens whenever something is wrong in my world, and on this occasion I got a distinct sense it had something to do with the phone!  I'd asked a week earlier that it be disconnected by that morning but I picked it up and ... brrrrr! My hair inexplicably stood on end, so, with Forni, Keith and Molly outside shouting "Hurry up!  We're waiting!",  I rang the phone company and asked what had gone wrong, only to be told they couldn't get anyone out there for three days.  (It actually ended up being a week.)

That's when I blew my top and told them, in very definite terms "You put this on record. Type this onto our file NOW. WE ARE NOT PAYING FOR ANY PHONE CALLS MADE AFTER THIS ONE!!! You were meant to have disconnected this phone this morning, so any subsequent calls YOU WEAR THE COST!!!"

And it's that single call, which thankfully they did make a matter of record, that makes it possible for us to NOT pay that bank-account-emptying astronomically high phone bill, no matter how often we get dunned!  Yeah, it's great being Irish!

But that's not the Forni story I was going to tell you. It's this one:

I've already told you how she handed us a two-week notice to quit the premises. What I didn't mention is that she told us, after we pulled her out of the hole, not to worry because she had a lovely house just around the corner that she could rent to us for the same amount.

Naturally we didn't trust her for a nano-second so asked to see the house ... so she drove us around the corner and she was right. It was indeed a lovely house.  It was still occupied so we couldn't go inside, but it really seemed a fair exchange so we quietly packed up the house on La Trobe Terrace without a worry in the world.

Then came moving day.  In our car that morning, we followed Forni and the removal van around the corner ... only to find the house still occupied.  "That's not your house!" Forni said, throwing her head back and laughing in a way that was no longer charming and infectious, "That one down there is!"

Behind the house was a deep gully, all-dank, dark and mosquito-ridden, and along a slippery mud path down a serious slope, was a corrugated iron shack!  "That's where you'll be living.  Bahahahahha!"

Oh yeah!  Keith's right!  The worst low-life scum EVER!

And that's when she uttered her final hilarious line "You have no where else to live.  You have no choice.  That's your new home! Bahahahahahah!"

"There are always choices, you piece of slime!" we told her.

"No there isn't!  You'll see!"

Molly rang a friend who she knew was looking for a new flatmate and asked if she could move in, got given the room and so immediately deserted us!  That left just Keith and me and a removal van, which thankfully we had for the whole day.

Newspapers!  OTHER rental agencies! Driving around!  Frantic! Trying to find anywhere at all to live!  But rental agents all over could smell our desperation - or maybe Forni had us blacklisted - and so they either refused to help us or were showing us utter crap for astronomical prices!

By then it was late afternoon and both of us had part time jobs and had to go to work, so the removalist kindly said he'd hang on to our stuff overnight and thus we gave up the hunt and went off to work, both desperately worried sick!

But then the miracles started!  I walked into work to discover Barbara talking about her long-time neighbours and how they were moving into a new house and so were wanting to find tenants for the old one.  Three bedrooms. A huge old house in The Grange; a lovely area. Big garden.  Instantly I was on to it, got the number, rang them and it was all wonderful.  And sure, since we knew Barbara, they'd be glad to have us move in.  Bated breath, I asked what the rent was!  Only a quarter of what we'd been paying to the Gardners from Fiji.  Unbelievable, astonishing luck, yes?

But then came the downside.  They were having work done on their new place so weren't moving out for six weeks.  I took it anyway, sight unseen, and rang Keith at work to tell him and that's when he gave me his news; the other half of the miracle:  the lovely Sri Lankan lady he worked with, Bridie, had just thrown the tenants out of her rental property and the damage they'd done to the place was so bad she had to bring in a demolition team ... but which couldn't demolish the house for six weeks ... AND she would willingly lend it to us rent-free until then!

YES!!!! 

Beloved of the gods, yes?  Although, let me tell you, that rent-free deal, although wonderful and gratefully and tearfully received, wasn't quite the honey-golden miracle it appeared to be.  However THAT is another story.

This one?  Let's just say it ended with a very rude and joyous phone call to Forni telling her exactly where she could stick it and that if we ever saw her again ... to expect a punch in the nose!

Bloody Icelanders!  Honestly!  I've only ever met one other and, even though he was the sweetest little boy,  I definitely didn't trust him either, not for a nano-second, just to be on the safe side!

And they aren't all descended from Vikings, I'll have you know.  They all tell you this, but I looked it up - mainly to throw it in Forni's face back when she used it as a weapon - and I have to tell you that the Vikings only lived there for five generations before they moved back to Norway ... leaving their Icelandic estates in the hands of their most-embarrassing, deformed and imbecilic children and their slaves!

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Mid Autumn Festival!

Today, we in China celebrate one of our big four annual festivals, Mid Autumn Festival, so it's lanterns and mooncakes and public holidays all around.

The problem, however, with writing a post on it is that, after three years blogging, I've covered all the festivals.  Mid Autumn Festival can be found here, although this account comes from 2004 when our world was very different indeed.  There are later accounts but you'll have to find them yourself.

However, this year, what's different is that everyone is raving about how they've found a new-style mooncake they actually like and want to eat.  And they aren't talking about the same mooncake in each instance because there are literally dozens of these new suckers.  Seems this year everyone has tried their hand at reinvention.

That was the problem with the original mooncakes:  made from baked lotus seed paste and with a double-yoked hundred-year-old egg in the middle, they tasted foul, weren't good for you, and - if that weren't enough to whammy them - they had, at their heart, a little piece of toxicity that would very likely kill you.  It was the only food on earth that came with a government health warning.


There are folk out there who claim to like the original mooncake but they never sound sincere to me.  All those "No, seriously.  I really do.  Of course, I only ever eat a slither of it each year, but I really do like them."

So if ever there was a food in need of reinvention, it has to be this one.  But you may recall how, six years back, Starbucks tried its hand at coming up with their own version and everyone was outraged.  "How dare you Americans come in here and try to change our most sacred foods?" and thus it wasn't a success ... although several people did whisper to me that they tried the Starbucks mooncake and actually LIKED it. But that was something you could ever say aloud.

However, here we are, six years later, and most everyone has admitted something has to be done and now, this year, reinvented mooncakes are outselling the original.

Tonight we plan to go to Sai Kung to watch the kiddies float their lantern boats followed by a big communal beach party.  Man, those Jewish families out there in New Territories know how to throw a fabulous Mid-Autumn Festival Extravaganza!

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Our Old House, Part Two!

This is the house I meant to post yesterday, although it didn't look like this when we lived there.  They've taken down the fence, restored the veranda and that's a new awning too.  And we definitely didn't have a name in disco lights up there on the roof:

The House on La Trobe Terrace!

But isn't it a darling.  It looks tiny from the front but there's another floor below because this house too is on a hill.  And it too had a terrific view out the back of the city, the hills and the river but such tiny windows you could barely see any of it.  Such a waste! And I must tell you I was most annoyed to see the people who now own it haven't rectified that problem!

But it was a charming house and we enjoyed those almost-three years we spent living there. Had some lovely features and I'm glad to say they kept those:

The archways!

The carved wooden air-vent insets.

The stained-glass windows.

As you can see, it's now a fabric shop and renovated since our time, although not nearly well enough. Back then, it was owned by the Gardners from Fiji and I was longing to make it all it could be, and even though I suggested they pay for the materials for the changes I wanted to make - restoring the veranda, bigger back windows, a deck, larger studio downstairs - and we offered to do much of the work ourselves, they wouldn't hear of it.

Although I doubt if they ever did hear of it because I didn't trust our rental agent to do anything she promised to do. Not for a nano-second!

Oh Lordy!  Our rental agent!  She was this Legendary Creature who I still, almost 30 years later, hear stories about, and none of them nice either! 

Her name was Forni - so naturally we called her Kate, although not to her face - and she came from Iceland and I hope not representative of all Icelanders because she was the most vile, obnoxious, conniving, underhanded creature on the planet, only so funny and so charming that, even while you wanted to strangle her with your bare hands, you couldn't stop laughing.

I could tell you so many stories about her, but instead I'll just tell you one:  she reported us to the Local Council for not taking care of the gardens of the empty rental properties she was paid to administer ... but none of it was our property!  It absolutely had nothing to do with us but we got endless threatening letters from the Council to mow those lawns! 

That went on for over a year, those threatening letters, and every time I'd have them stopped with threatening letters of my own, a few weeks later they'd start again, so I'd wave those letters in her face and shout "You stop doing this to us.  This is not our business!"  

She'd just shrug insouciantly and say "Why should I hire someone? Your husband is young and strong.  He should mow my lawns!"  

"It isn't his job to mow your lawns.  You are paid good money to hire someone to do it for you."

"Why should I waste my money?  Your husband is young and strong.  He should mow my lawns."

So it went on, week after week, month after month, until, Lordy, you'd be so angry and so ready to kill her but suddenly, because of her charm, you'd find it hilarious!

And whenever you caught her out in a lie, or cheating you, she'd throw back her head and laugh.  And that laugh was so infectious that, instead of punching her in the nose, you'd start to laugh too.  Truly, she would get away with murder!

But let me tell you one more story about her!  YES!!! Forni-Kate's comeuppance!   

What happened was the Gardners from Fiji, who we'd known most of our lives, told Kate to give us fair warning that they planned to sell the house, but Kate, with some idea of emergency-renting another of her empty properties to us, never let us know ... so the first we heard of it was when she unlocked our front door - which she always did - never knocked - to show complete strangers around our house.  We were justifiably very angry and, when she handed us a two-week notice to quit the property, stood there glaring at her and saying mean things like "You're slime, Forni." 

However, she ignored us and was praising the house to the skies to the stranger, then said "And see how the floorboards are so solid."  and stamped her foot on the ground ... and the floorboards immediately gave way and she went crashing through.

Yayyyy!

Hey, we'd been telling her about those floorboards for three years but she never listened; always said "It's not so bad. Cover the hole with a rug!" so that's what we'd done.  And it was that rug which stopped her from crashing down a full fifteen feet to the ground below, but she was stuck in the hole and couldn't get out ... so we simply left her there as we showed the strangers, who now had no intention of buying, out the front door!

We did intend to leave her there for the rest of her natural life but then we all began to laugh! 

So that's the story of Our House on La Trobe Terrace! 

However, I can't tell you any stories about Arthur the Ghost!  The nice lady who now owns the house was asking if we'd ever seen him, and I was almost embarrassed to admit that, in the three years we lived there, we never saw hide-nor-hair of any ghost!  

Forni was ghoul enough for anybody!

Our Old House!

When I was in Brisbane recently, I dragged Andrew down the hill to see our old house, mainly to get photographs of where we lived while at uni to show the kids.  I thought I'd post the photos in here because certain members of family may be interested to see it again:

The Old Aboriginal Hospital 
in Red Hill!

No, not this house!  This was the earlier house we lived in before we moved to another further down the hill! However let's leave that next house for another day and look at this one instead!

Isn't it terrific.  Right on the ridge overlooking the entire city, and spectacular at night, it's now an upmarket family home but back then it contained four narrow flats each three floors high and, when we lived there, inhabiting each of these flats were -  from left to right - prostitutes from the brothel next door, a biker gang, a lesbian separatist commune, and finally, ummmm, we university students!

The stories I could tell you!!!  Mmmmph!  No, better not!  Oh, why not!  It was 30 years ago, and I'm sure the statute of limitations on various illegal activities means no one can get into trouble for it.

So, check out that most-respectable-looking house to the left of the Old Hospital!  That was the brothel where our prossies worked.  And it's particularly interesting because it's the very infamous brothel where, as the Fitzgerald Inquiry finally let the entire country know, the Evil and Corrupt Premier Joh Bjelke-Petersen set up those peepholes and cameras et al so he could get compromising photographic evidence of the wrong-doings of all his political enemies.  Nasty business indeed!

And we were living right there too, right next door, while all that was going down!  And I had a number of private chats with the prossies involved, all of whom knew ALL about these illegal activities and willingly shared everything they knew.  Names!  What actually went down!  How they honey-pot snared 'em.  Boasting about how clever they were, I guess, and therein putting me, a mere university student, in my place.

Can't say I liked these girls.  Endlessly stupid in every imaginable way, and it really got to me was how they all thought they were soooo clever and that they were being really smart compromising all these important people!  And, you know, they never considered themselves victims in all this; more like active participants and kinda like "undercover operatives" and, yes, simply LOVED the huge sums they got for doing it.  

But I'll tell you something I learned from my brief time knowing these lassies!  Stay away from anyone who uses the phrase "I'm a survivor! I do whatever it takes!" because it means they've already rationalised and justified whatever ugly plot they've hatched to take you down. I promise you that phrase is a warning, so take it seriously and GET OUT OF THERE.

But, yes, we were still living there during the political downfall of The Nationals, Joh, and the highly corrupt Head of Police Russ Hinze, but, sadly, had moved out by the time the police investigations into what actually went on in that brothel went down, so I have no insider story about any of that!

However, this is about our house, so ... next door to the prossies was the biker gang, but they were scary-creepy and in the big league for running drugs - and possibly guns - so I never ever wanted to know them.  But I have to tell you that, when they sampled their own merchandise, got high and began their screaming rants down the ridge to the houses - and the "worker ants" who lived in them - below, I was perpetually annoyed at the shallowness of their thinking and kept putting together reading-lists in my head for what they really needed to know to give genuine power, depth and meaning to their anti-bourgeois tirades!

Then next-door to the bikers were the lesbian separatists who refused to have anything to do with MEN, but who all caught a particularly nasty form of venereal disease from Max-The-Junkie who would, almost every night, creep along that second floor roof and in through the windows.  And not once did these girls scream or carry-on about a strange man coming into their bedrooms, seeing it like "A Visit from My Dark Prince!" and welcoming him with open arms!  

I think we can blame all those Kate Bush songs they listened to, with all that dark imagery and those sinister romantic figures slinking through the night, for that particular lapse of taste and wisdom.

However, there was much screaming next door when these lassies discovered their disease!  And that household dissolved very quickly after that, as you'd expect!  Imagine EVERYONE in your commune secretly selling out the cause!

And the next flat along was where Keith was living when I first met him ... on the day The Dingo Took the Baby! ... and I eventually moved off campus and in with him.  And for this little girl from the islands, it was definitely an eye-opener! DEFINITELY!  However, I wish I could tell you I was shocked by it all, but I can't because I wasn't.  For me, it felt like I was finally living.

We were the student household.  Nominally university students that is, since just about everyone else had long-ago lost any interest in their half-finished PhDs and only spent enough time at uni to maintain their life-style at Government expense.  I, on the other hand, was still a sad little undergraduate and so not remotely cool and disinterested in learning and knowledge and all that entails.

Best story from living at that house?  Mmm, most are definitely not "tellable" although ... OK, I'll mention those police raids.  

Yeah, we had lots of police raids.  It seemed most illogical to me that two doors down we had blokes doing serious drug-running, yet still the police chose to pick us!  At first, I thought they had the wrong address but then I noticed just how young most of the police were and guessed we must have been a Masterclass down at the local Police Academy:  Drug Raid 101.

We got to be so blase about it all, sitting in the kitchen drinking coffee as all around us these little-boys-and-girls-in-police-uniforms ransacked and tossed our house, guided by the jaundiced eye of the same chunky-chesty-old-copper, barking instructions and making suggestions and glaring at us like we were evil incarnate, especially if we made any jokes. 

But mostly it was good natured and frequently they'd even clean up afterward if we asked, so we were forever saying things like "Can you bang those books together before you restack those shelves? They're very dusty." or  "Before you push back that wardrobe, can you retrieve the shoe I dropped back there?" and if you threw in the odd "Pretty please?" and "Thank you!" they'd give you a little embarrassed smile and do it willingly and apologetically.

Except for this one occasion!  I've never told anyone this before, but there was this one night when I got a bad vibe off one of the young coppers, so when he went into the bathroom and shut the door, I stood outside to eavesdrop and very definitely heard him move the lid of the cistern, and so, as soon as he came out, I went in to check and, yes, there was a little baggie of white powder in there.  I thought maybe I should go out and hand it back to him saying "I think you forgot this!" but I had second thoughts since I could see that one ending very badly ... and so I flushed it!

It really shook me up, that did!  You're forever hearing about police planting evidence but to actually know it's true.  That those things are really done, and not just in films, books, urban legends and long-time-junkie-stories!  Shocking!  And also very bad sportsmanship!  We all knew Max-the-Junkie may have had his stash hidden someplace but it was up to the police to find it, and if they didn't - and they never once did - that was the nature of the game. The police had LOST and they should have just worn it!  

But to plant something ... and in a communal area too ... which meant we ALL would have gone down for it?  That's just wrong!  And it's unsporting and unjust too! 

Anyway, I never mentioned it to anyone on the off-chance that this was indeed Max's stash, thinking that if Max started screaming about it being missing, we'd know he'd broken a very fundamental house-rule - "Keep your stash in your own private area!  We will NOT go to prison for your habit!"  but neither he or anyone else in the house ever mentioned it, so ...

But that isn't a happy story!  Let's end with a happy story from those days!

Ah ha! I'll tell you about a particularly terrific party:  The Kiss Concert Night!  Because the house on the ridge at Red Hill overlooked the Football Stadium where the Brisbane Kiss Concert was being held, each of these four flats individually and without consulting each other, threw a "Come Over and See Kiss for Free" party. 

So all four households and hundreds of guests sat right there on that second-storey roof, watching Kiss below and a friendlier and happier occasion could not be imagined.  There's nothing like the chance of slipping and falling to your death, or indeed bringing a roof crashing down, to bring out the best in people.  Sure, I never was a Kiss fan but I owe them a debt of gratitude for what was definitely a wildly funny and fun night.

So that was one house I used to live in.  The house I meant to show you, I assure you, was a lot more innocent and sweet!  Although, yes, Max did stay with us for a short while after his long-suffering girlfriend, Julie, finally threw him out ... but then, when the police raids started on this house too - and we'd moved particularly to get away from those - we did ask him to leave because we weren't THAT SORT OF HOUSE!

And we weren't either! Honestly!

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Letter from 2005

Found another old letter from our travels, this one from
February 2005:
 
We're off tonight to Singapore. YES!!! Not exactly the 
adventure holiday we planned but Irene, our nice travel 
agent, couldn't get us what we wanted but she's got us 
a great deal on this instead so we're planning to have 
just as much fun doing this as doing the other, although 
for a lot shorter time.
 
Longest I've ever spent in Singapore in the past is 17 
hours, so this will be terrific. I definitely want to 
go to Bugis Street, even though I know that these days 
it's a fake. It's the area the government built after 
it got on that big morals campaign and bulldozed the 
real Bugis Street and there was a world-wide public 
outcry, so they faked this new one and rounded up all 
the ladyboys and herded them in there just so we 
tourists can all go see them like they're exotic zoo 
animals. 
 
Actually, the real reason I want to go is so I can 
get all outraged at the injustice and that will make 
me feel like I'm a bigtime International Citizen and 
Sophisticated World Traveller ... but, knowing me, 
I'll probably enjoy the new place.
 
Also want to walk down Orchard Street and do some 
serious bargain-hunting. AND I want to see all the 
restored colonial mansions on Emerald Hill to get 
ideas for when I get my own old colonial mansion 
in Vietianne in Laos. 
 
AND, naturally, I want to take afternoon tea at 
Raffles ... which is really silly considering 
afternoon tea at HK's Peninsula Hotel is MUCH more 
prestigious and I've never ever done that; at least
not since I was a child. Inexcusable considering 
I've been here over a year. Keith is SUCH a Scrooge! 
 
AND there's a temple in downtown Little India that's 
meant to be a carbon copy of our much loved "Sri Rama 
Temple and Motorbike Repair Shop" in Saigon ... only 
this one doesn't have the motorbike repair shop. 
 
Oh, and I'll also take lots of photos of Singapore 
Botanical Gardens since it's meant to be a carbon-copy 
of Victoria Park in HK AND Thurston Gardens in Suva ... 
although the Fiji one is much smaller since it was where 
Thurston worked out his planting schemes for the other 
two parks.  I just LOVE it when Fiji indeed turns out to 
be the epicenter of the world, and this is one of those 
cases!
 
Oh, and there's meant to be a stunning Armenian Church in 
downtown Singapore that was built in 1835.  Isn't that just 
ODD. Seems there were masses of Armenians there even before 
Raffles claimed the island in the name of England, which is
strange because it was supposed to be a simple fishing 
village built among the ruins of the great Bugis pirates 
principle city Singapura. So that's something I'd like to 
check that out properly.  Don't like historical anomalies.
 
Anyway, those are our plans for Singapore.  I'll write to 
you all about it when I get back.
 
 
2010 UPDATE!
 
1) Bugis Street, 2005, was a sad little "white elephant"
wasteland without a single ladyboy anywhere and no one 
else either.  All closed and empty shops and "to-let" 
signs and a sad air of "good idea at the time" desolation 
 ... except for this terrific little icecream parlor
with fabulous icecream and actual customers.

2) Orchard Street is a tourist trap and not a lot worth
buying.

3) Raffles was lovely.

4) Singapore Botanical Gardens were lovely, but I've 
already posted about them.

5) Never found that particular Hindu temple, but
we did discover other ones.

6)  Never got to any museums, except for the one 
dedicated to the Straits-Chinese, and that one because 
one look at the Straits Chinese and they instantly
fascinated me; they called themselves Chinese but
don't quite fit the mould so that was the mystery I
solved to my own satisfaction on that particular trip.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

The Pope's Ceiling!

Am currently reading Ross King's "Michelangelo and the Pope's Ceiling", the story of the painting of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, something I've always wanted to know more about since, I regret to tell you, when I saw it for myself I found it truly truly ugly!

I did indeed ... so shoot me!

I think I was about three or four my first encounter and remember immediately thinking "A great masterpiece?  Who are they kidding?" while all around me folks fluttered their hands as they raved it up in a great many languages, and I noticed the ring of untruth in their voices and realised they were all being insincere in their praise and that this ceiling was "The Emperor's New Clothes" made manifest.

 I mean, just LOOK at it!

And yes, I saw that the individual bits of it were indeed lovely, but the entire ceiling didn't hang together in an even mildly coherent fashion, and those big fleshy Michelangelo angels and saints just looked stupid in relation to each other and they all looked just-plain chunky, fat and unhealthy coming as they did right down to the edge where they joined up with the 42 lean Gothic-style popes that he painted along the side of the upper wall.

And the colours didn't mesh properly in the empty spaces between the figures, and the sizes and perspectives were all crazy-wrong and every bit looked so silly next to the next bit and, yes, it looked like the artist changed style after finishing the easy bits, and so the finished effect was messy, incoherent and artistically unsatisfying.

I far preferred the frescoes on the ceilings of that ducal palace no one's ever heard of AND the one on the ceiling of ... St Stephens?  The church just down the road, anyway!

And I remember too that it was the first time I ever encountered those nasty bony prodding fingers of men in dresses.  Look, all I did was lie on the floor to look properly at the ceiling, wondering if maybe it would look better from that angle ... and I got brutally abraded by those ghastly gargoylish papal emissary types, who all looked like vultures, and mean-spirited vultures at that.

Anyway, it turns out my child's assessment was right because the ceiling was a shambles from the get-go.  Ghastly vulture-pope Julius II hired Michelangelo as a SCULPTOR TO BUILD HIS TOMB, only someone told him it was unlucky to build your tomb before you died and thus he stopped payment to Big Miche, who was then left with a hefty bill for marble and had to go into debt with usurers to cover the cost and so had to return to Florence to finish the 39 statues he already had half finished to pay it back ... only Julius, mad as a hatter and twice as selfish, didn't want him making those sublime works of art for other lesser churches and so had him dragged back by soldiers to Rome to ... to ... well, he didn't actually have anything for Miche to do and so it was a case of "Mmmmm, what are you really bad at?  Frescoes? Ceiling paintings? Well, there you go! Chisel off what's there and do me another one!"

Truly, it was that bad.  The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel was simply an exercise in time-wasting AND in teaching an uppity-genius to know-his-place. Truly!  Pope Julius actually questioned other Florentine artists to discover what genre of the arts most frightened Michelangelo and when he heard he was terrified of painting frescoes AND that he was particularly terrified of painting in the "from the bottom up" technique required for paintings seen from below - because he'd only ever done ONE tiny one before and that was at the Borgia's art school when he was a boy and so he knew he'd never even begun to master the techniques required - and so Julius II gave him the biggest and most important fresco-on-the-ceiling on earth, and told him to paint pictures!

Oh, and then, when Julius realised Michelangelo wasn't failing as spectacularly as he'd hoped, he began to run interference and order him to stick things in here-and-there and do this-and-that in different styles ... and so naturally the whole finished piece was a stupid shambles!

Took 18 years to make such a mess too, and the worst part of all this is that the world never got the wonderful body of work that Big Miche would have given us all if only Pope Julius II hadn't been such a selfish, insane, creepy vulture-gargoyle!

However, every time I've seen it since, much older but a lot less wise, I've had a less jaundiced eye and a much kinder assessment so I guess the hand-flutters won and I learned to see it, along with everyone else, within the hype and thus "What a masterpiece!!!"

However, in tribute to my younger and wiser self, I have to tell you the most astonishing fact EVER; something I've just discovered reading this book that has shaken me to my core and made me wonder about "earth memory": the theory that the earth and everything on it retains a memory of everything that has gone before at that particular site.

During those brief seconds I was on that floor before some papal vulture-gargoyle yanked me upwards by the arm and prodded me out of the basilica, I clearly recall thinking "You know what would look really nice up there?  A deep azure covered by gold stars!"

Well, what I've just read is ... you know the fresco already on that ceiling that Michelangelo had to first chisel off?  Guess what was there?

Piermatteo d'Amelia's sublime fresco of ... a deep azure covered with gold stars!!!

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Another Old Letter!

This old letter, chosen at random, comes from 2004.  Seems I'm just back from a jaunt someplace I went to without Keith.  Wonder where that was?  Maybe Japan, because it's around then that I chaperoned that group of vile little convent kiddies on their tour around that country!

Am back in HK. Arrived last night only to discover, early this morning, when I went to download my uni stuff, that Keith has somehow managed to screw up my computer. Thus I'm using cybercafes. And already there's a line formed behind me to use this machine and I've only just got on after two hours of waiting, waiting, waiting.

And here's me trying to do my Masters too. It's a nightmare.

Anyway, THE BIG FIGHT!!! This morning after Keith tells me I won't be able to get into cyberspace because he's done something to my computer while I was away and which he didn't bother to get fixed either, even though it's been three weeks!!!  AND somehow the upshot of the fight is that it's all my fault, although I still don't know how ... and here's me already fortnight behind everyone else at uni ... and I'm going to end up doing really, really badly ... and somehow it's all going to end up being my fault too.

But ignore that. The good news is that I got upgraded on my flight yesterday and it was wonderful. There was a line of about 800 squabbling German tourists and I got to swish right past them all and enter in another door, and everyone called me by my name, and the food and champagne was never ending and cups of tea came the whole flight, and then we were allowed off the plane first and our luggage was waiting for us. How groovy is that? And I also got to find out what happened to all the wonderful moisturisers etc that planes used to have in  the toilets when I was a kid. They've had them all along, only I was down the other end of the plane and never got to use them. Oooh, it's a different world up the front end of a plane and I never want to go back to Cattle Class ever again.

And - so cute - the person who got me upgraded was the sweetest Indian lady in a gorgeous sari who's name was, wait for this!, Mrs Lee.

So that's my news. Not much, I know.  However, what I do know is that I'm now furious again. Took me two hours to get onto this computer, and then 15 minutes to write this letter and now the alarm has just gone off and I'm now supposed to surrender the sucker to this campy little sino-boy hovering over my shoulder, tapping me now and then, and whispering that he's waiting to get on ... and doesn't know how close he's coming to getting his nasty, poking finger twisted and broken. 

But no.  Deep breathe! Surrender quietly!

So I'm off. And I didn't even get to download my uni-reading for the papers I'm meant to be writing!

Dammit, I sooo hate Keith at this point in time.

Lolomas,
Denise

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Carol's Choice!

When Colette was here last week, on her way back to Fiji from Spain, I took one look at what she had on her feet ...


 
... and said "You stole your sister's shoes!"

I knew. And I knew because Carol always makes such wonderful choices, and all within the "only Carol" paradigm, and you can always tell at a glance what choices she's made.  And in everything she does too!

You know, if I could have one talent above any other, it would be the talent Carol has shown her whole life:  a definite and decided taste in everything she does and every choice she ever makes.

Back in high school in Fiji, Carol cut off all her hair ... and instantly her entire face pulled into focus; her cheekbones looked razor-sharp, and her jaw took on a perfect line, and her eyes suddenly appeared the most vivid blue!  Suddenly, with this brutal Mia Farrow pixie cut, she went from "pretty girl" over the line and into the realm of what we can only call downright beautiful!

I remember thinking at the time "Oh, the poor honey!  Imagine finding your perfect haircut at such a young age.  What will she now do for the rest of her life?"  Well, the answer to that was NOTHING!  Carol found the perfect haircut and has kept it.  And that has always been her way.

Oh, man, her choices!  And every single choice too! I can't praise enough her perfect and simple wardrobe, where every item of clothing looks perfect on her! And when she moved back to Fiji, she brought the furniture she couldn't bear to part with:  the perfect giant red sofa, the perfect mill-house-door-for-a-coffee-table, the perfect carved giant mirror, the perfect bed, the perfect pillows.  And she painted her new house the perfect white and the perfectly ordinary house and everything in it suddenly looked perfect.

But then she moved back to Spain and got herself a little house on the side of a hill and, oh man, did it all over again. Every single choice PERFECT!!!

This gift!  I would give anything to have such a gift!

Anyway, I'm sure her little sister, who does have great taste but only not in such abundance and not with such surety, wouldn't like me leaving you thinking she's a "big sister's shoes stealer" ... so I have to end by telling you that Carol did indeed buy them but then got her little sister another pair as well!


Later:  let me see if I can steal one of Kimerley's photos of Carol, just so you can see for yourself what effortless chic looks like:



Denise's Rules for Saving Your Own Life

Every year on my birthday my mother asked "What have you learned in the past year that you wish you'd known earlier?"  It was always an interesting question: thinking about it; hunting around for "the big one", that wonderful piece of wisdom that would have made life so much easier if only you'd known sooner. 

She always claimed that life taught you the rules to live by, but I wasn't really paying attention!

I once drew up a list called "Everything worth knowing about life, I learned from my rottweiller!" until I realised my dog wasn't happy being a self-centered, self-serving sociopath and really just wanted to be loved, so I had to throw out glorious pieces of wisdom like "Anyone can be intimidated into submission with a long angry glare and a low growl!" although that served me very well indeed in my years as a high school teacher.

Anyway, I've been thinking about this a lot lately - what have I learned in my life - and decided to put together a list of what I know now that I wish I'd always known: a list of rules to live by based on my own life experiences, so ...

DENISE'S RULES FOR SAVING YOUR OWN LIFE!
c. 2010

Rule 1: Never ever panic.  Panic stops you thinking and you can come up with the solution to every problem as long as you stay calm and focused.

Rule 2: Be open to all the magic the world wants to give you.

Rule 3:  Stay away from emotionally unavailable men.

Rule 4:  People always tell you the truth about themselves even when they are joking or lying.

Rule 5:  The second time you meet someone, they tell you a story that contains all you need to know about them.  Listen out for it and take it on board because it is a vivid insight into your future relationship. 

Rule 6:  How someone treats others is a time machine into the future.  Take note because then you know how you yourself will one day be treated.

Rule 7:  You are not some fairytale princess who cures anyone of what ails them. No one changes. Everyone is who they are and, after a brief honeymoon period, will revert to being that person.

Rule 6: Choose for your closest friends folks who are borderline Aspergics.  They alone have no negative or base emotions nor a hidden agenda.  With them for friends, you get nothing but friendship ... and an immediate source of solid information because they are always experts in their chosen fields.

Rule 7:  There's no such thing as a trivial act. How folks behave with the little things is how they'll also behave with the big ones!

Rule 8:  The film world is full of folk who are talented, clever and passionate about making great films, only don't ever expect to meet anyone like this.  You'll only ever come across the charlatans.

Rule 9:  Don't ever allow yourself to feel hope.  It only stops you from facing up to the truth. There's a reason why it was trapped in Pandora's Box with all the other evils in the world.

Rule 10:  Like Blanch Dubois said, you can always rely on the kindness of strangers.


It was originally twenty rules, but that's all for now.  More tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Another Random Photo!

Another busy day, so it's another random photo chosen with my eyes shut.  If it's anything interesting, I'll tell you about it, and if it isn't ... I'm off.


Oh dear!  Definitely interesting-ish! It's one of my series of shots of our friendly neighbourhood ladyboys' daily puja offerings.  I have no idea of why I'm taking these photos nor what I plan to eventually do with them and just hope it's nothing awful.

I haven't told you this before, but we live just along the hall from a flatful of Thailand's only-ever genuinely ugly ladyboys.  Previously, I didn't even know Thailand HAD ugly ladyboys because, more normally, they look like this:


 ... but one look at our new neighbours and the scales fell from my eyes and I realised the error of my ways, so can now tell you that Thai ladyboys range across the full spectrum from truly lovely, like Miss Tiffany above, all the way across to our chappies down the hall.

And thus, given their line of work where being truly-ugly must surely be a handicap and thus, perhaps, because life is especially hard for them, these lively fellows offer MASSIVE puja (although it's not called puja in Thailand, is it!) to their gods every morning for success in their daily undertakings.

And they do it in the communal hallway too.

Flowers on their improvised altar outside their front door I don't mind.  Nor do I mind the incense.  Even the bowls of fruit they put out, I don't object. But when there's an entire baked chicken dinner or a small roast suckling pig with dumplings, I find myself saying brutally Kristallnacht lines like "We never had vermin till they moved in!"  which may be true but is also something you never want to hear yourself say about anyone.

Mind you, vermin-attracting or not, I took their side in a fight on the street one night, but I couldn't help it because it was one of those times where, although you have no idea what's really going on, you side with the folks you know because the others are just so genuinely vile and awful. 

Naturally, the fight occurred on Lockhart Road, heartland for The World of Suzie Wong:

Although this brothel is in Bangkok! 

And the street-warrior gangs consisted of, on one side, Our Neighbours - bolstered up by the local hard-faced Mama-sans and a gaggle of our winsy-gorgeous but deceptive tough little Filipina prossies - and on the other side the vilest, foul-mouthed, most genuinely awful gang of large, truly-ugly black-American drag queens!   

And the fighting consisted entirely of screaming and screeching, pushing and shoving, with flurries of shrieking and little girly-chest slaps where everyone protected their manicures.  It was indeed charming to watch, although I was really only there because I got trapped in the crowd while passing by, going out for dinner.
 
Clearly it was a turf war because there's undoubtedly room for only ONE gang of truly-ugly ladyboys, even in Lockhart Road, and the fact that Our Guys had neighbourhood support meant that everyone agreed Our Guys should win!

And then, when the police finally arrived, the cop with the yellow stripe (HK police wear a yellow stripe on their shoulder if they speak English) asked me -  so-obviously merely a disinterested by-stander and therefore unbiased - who was in the wrong, I immediately and with undoubted bias pointed at the American ladyboys and they were the ones arrested.  Yayyyy!

Mind you, the police sooo wanted to arrest the Americans because they were so vile.  The instant the police arrived, they were on to them, shrieking about what Our Guys did to them and the cops so-obviously couldn't understand a word and kept pointing at Yellow-Stripe-Cop and saying "English! English!" and the Americans were shouting back at them "What do you mean, English?  He's a Chinky-Chinky Chinaman just like you, you stupid c**ts!"

Hey, you don't need a yellow stripe to get what that means, and so, after their quick demonstration of "how to get yourself arrested in a foreign country", they were handcuffed and bustled into paddy-wagons and we never saw them again.  Yayyy!

So that's the story of how Our Guys won the turf war for ugly-ladyboy space on Lockhart Road! And indeed the gods got a mighty big offering the following day!  A little roast suckling pig with dumplings!

Yeah, yeah! I know!  I was definitely asking for it!

Monday, September 13, 2010

Random Photo!

Busy all day so I'll just post a random photo, chosen with my eyes shut, and if it's interesting I'll tell you about it and if it isn't, I'll go out!


Someone being arty? I have no idea where this is or even why I took it.  Or especially why I kept it! And since it would take hours to find it again in context, those questions will not be answered.

Keith, the Music Man!

My husband Keith, although by day a mild-mannered teacher of handicapped children, for years had a multi-award-winning radio show. Sunday nights from 9 to 11. Although it was a time-slot no regular radio announcer wanted because it never had an audience, Keith gathered a large following entirely because the show was so sincerely beautiful.

And it always appeared effortless too, but only I used to know the amount of time he spent putting it together.  Regularly, between 19 and 20 hours for a two hour show.

But the results were always worth it.  He chose songs from all over the world, and very frequently by artists no one had ever heard of, but every song tickled your ear, touched your soul and stirred your heart, and every song was always followed by the exact song your ear, consciously or unconsciously, longed to hear next and the music collectively built up and up and up until, by the end, it resolved with a frankly orgasmic and spectacular song that would blow the top of your head off ...

... but only in conjunction with the others; only as the end of the journey.  You'd think it was the greatest song ever written so track it down but listening to it in isolation, without the other songs coming before, it would never have the same effect.

I was so proud of Keith.  I always knew he knew music like no one else I'd even known, but I'd never previously known you could do so much with a large record collection - to build the music in that spectacular way, and do it week after week, and keep it going for several years - but, my oh my, that radio show was always a mighty, mighty listening experience.

Taxi drivers on night shift discovered it first and would regularly slink by the radio station to peer at Keith through the window, and they'd talk to other people wanting to share the experience and raving Keith up to family, friends and passengers, and so those folks began to listen in too.  And then the hospitals and hospices began to play the show for the dying, and he got calls from staff who said that regularly folks died in numbers immediately after the show but not in a bad way; that they would always tell the nurses that they'd hang on for a couple more days so they could once again hear The Music and then, once the show was over, be finally ready to pass on.

Our comedian friend Andrew always said that was one of the funniest stories he'd ever heard, but he always did have a dark sense of humour.

And then there were fans who'd recognise Keith's voice as we'd go about our lives and they'd frequently slather over him in a quite alarming fashion, and, after meeting him in person, the female fans would then start dropping by the station with cakes or cupcakes they'd made especially for him, and when he'd tell me about it I'd always say "Oohhh, creepy! Play Misty for me!" ...

... but that stopped being funny when one female fan began dropping by our house to tape the music she'd loved on the show and she was so very, very creepy I'd grab a cuppa and go sit out in the garden to get away, but Keith would race out pleading "Please don't leave me alone with her." and I'd say "Hey, you want to be Homme Fatale you accept the consequences!" but I'd acknowledge the increasingly genuine fear on his face and kindly drift back indoors to play "Jealous Wife" and run interference ... and started to get the distinct feeling that my life was in very real danger ... except she thankfully had to do a runner for credit card fraud or something and thus passed out of our lives!  Yayyy!

And he once got a phone call from a visiting Trust Fund Kid, a scion from one of those American super-rich families with an instantly recognisable surname. Fascinating fellow, and well worthy of a large trust fund because he spends his life tracking down up-and-coming young GREAT singer songwriters who "have it" and taping them on his desperately old-fashioned Naga tape-deck.  Did nothing with those tapes, however, just listened to them in private, and later rejoiced when His Chosen Ones finally "made the big time", relishing the chance to say "Told you so!"

And, I have to add, he got it right so often, A&R men of the world should follow him around, shouldn't they!!!

Anyway, Trust Fund Kid rang to tell Keith that he too "had it" but in a different way and said he wanted to meet him, so we spent a lovely evening drinking truly fabulous wine on the visiting fellow's luxury yacht, listening to very early Robert Zimmerman, gay-bath-house Bette Midler and pub-band-singing, grave-digging Rod Steward, and also to a young Ismael Lo and Youssef N'Dour from when they were practically buskers.

And he told us stories about the McKrimmies, a Scottish clan that no longer exists but who, for more generations then you can count, wrote the greatest soul-stirring songs of Scotland and Ireland, and also stories about the Dubatis, the descendants of the Cryors of North Africa, the musician-laureates in the courts of the long-defunct African kings.

He told us that his "hunt for the music" began many decades earlier when he read the story about what happened to the McKrimmies: how the British had a 300 year-long policy to kill McKrimmies because they wrote all the songs that owned the hearts and minds of the Celtic people, and thought that by killing off the composers of those songs, they'd kill off the Irish and Scottish spirit. So, yes, for 300 years everyone who wore the McKrimmie kilt, especially if they developed a rep for great songwriting, could expect to die, usually by a sniper bullet from the hills as they went around their daily business or as they played their bagpipes and flutes in battles!

And these deaths went on and on for centuries until the last McKrimmie left alive, who knew he would die in battle the next day, wrote "McKrimmie's Lament", now the farewell song of Scotland, as a final McKrimmie gift to the Scottish peoples and as a Farewell Forever to The Music!

Anyway, Trust Fund Kid thought the Killing of the McKrimmies was the greatest atrocity ever committed on this planet ever until he realised that female McKrimmies would have married into other clans so the gene for The Music had to still be out there, so thus began his hunt for what became of the McKrimmie Great-Music gene ... and discovered that, for generations, the women had married into other musical clans like The Corrs, The Clannards, The McGarrigles, The Clancys, and, most frequently, the mighty Fury family, so the "composing music to stir your soul" DNA was still out there and well represented in the current world music scene!

Although, I ask you ... ENYA???? Why is there never a decent sniper up in them there hills when you need one!

But then, after 20 years of geneological research and haunting low-life venues for a bit of Naga-action, someone told Trust Fund Kid about the Cryors of Africa; that there was a similar musical family, The Dubati Clan, who for similarly thousands of years had written the songs to stir the soul of North Africa, but who had vanished during the era of European Colonialism and not been heard of since.

And thus began Trust Fund Kid's hunt for the Dubatis. They were out there too, and it was taping songs from descendants of their matrilineal line that he discovered Youssef N'Dour and Ismael Lo. And he made us the promise that, when the recording technology got good enough that poor people too could make broadcast quality recordings, the Dubati family would burst back onto the world music scene in a HUGE way.

And he isn't wrong. Occasionally, I go through the World Music oeuvre, and, yes, there are already five remarkable singer-songwriters with the surname Dubati on the lists .... and I should end this post with a quite remarkable story that I found genuinely funny at the time.

What happened was that, about three years into Keith's radio show and only months after our evening with Trust Fund Kid, Keith got a call from a blind African exchange student from Chad called Nasemba.  He told Keith that African students at the university campus adored Keith's show and told him that he HAD to listen, and he did and, because he was blind and so took in everything through his ears, and knew what was what, it was almost a great honour that he indeed always found Keith's radio show very special.

Anyway, they chatted for a while, and Nasemba started to talk about his best friend back in Chad, a fellow he only ever named as Vincent, and how he composed the most beautiful songs and how he'd love to share Vincent's music with Keith.

Keith being Keith and always wanting to discover GREAT new music, made a date for the following Sunday afternoon, and, well, I don't actually recall why I was there because normally I considered the station to be a Keith-only thing, but I was, at first in the role of coffee-maker, as Keith chatted with Nasemba, but then as ... well, Keith asked me to entertain Nasemba while he took the home-made tape into one of the booths to listen to singer-songwriter Vincent's music and was gone for over an hour.

OK, here's a puzzler:  what do you talk about to entertain a blind monosyllabic teenage African exchange student from Chad?  I mean, after the obvious questions about their studies and "how are you finding ...?" and "Would you like more coffee?" The silence stretched out until it got truly embarrassing, but then I had a wonderful flash of sheer brilliance.  "Do you know any musicians back home in Chad called Dubati?"

Nasemba's jaw dropped and he pointed behind him, in the direction Keith had walked, and said "You already have heard of Vincent?"

Yes, Nasemba's great-young-composer friend was indeed a descendant of the Great Music-Gene family of Africa ... and I was very sad to hear that modern-day Dubatis don't know their own history nor their past of Principle Poet-Laureates of the Kings' Courts nor how all North African kings would scramble to get their very own Dubatis on their staff, nor did they even know that once North Africa indeed had Courts and Kings who needed entertaining.  European Colonialism was devastating in the extent of the knowledge that was so carelessly tossed aside, wasn't it!

But the subject got Nasemba talking freely, and that's how I heard a great many wonderful stories about what it's like to grow up living next door to a household where everyone had the Great-Music gene, and where everyone is constantly singing and playing music and composing ephemeral songs that exactly describe each moment and then are gone forever.  Nasemba, blind and only able to take in the world through his ears, couldn't stay away and practically spent his entire childhood sitting on their stoop.

And then, when Keith finally got back, he said Vincent indeed "had it" in a big way but that Nasemba's recordings weren't of sufficient quality to be played on the radio.  Thus none of the rest of us ever got to hear the music made by a teenage Dubati Cryor ...  but we will, my friends, one day we will!

So that's the story of the years Keith was Music Man!  He says he misses it more than anything else he left behind when we came to Hong Kong ... even moreso than his band ... however, it's all there to go back to, one day, isn't it!